A Useful Info to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Assortment

For IWC, 2024 is the 12 months of the Portugieser. The gathering receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Computerized 40, Portugieser Computerized 42 (beforehand usually known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronographand Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44.

In addition to, IWC has launched an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, nonetheless, is with out question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cowl in a separate story.

With the facelift, IWC has refined its core assortment with refined nips and tucks, along with slimmer circumstances, whereas retaining the acquainted design. The revamp accommodates new liveries along with metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne.

The champagne finish, usually known as “Dune”

Preliminary concepts

I’ve on a regular basis cherished the aesthetic of the Portugieser assortment, which might be the one assortment of robe watches of any mannequin the place the (over)sizing is a attribute pretty than a draw back. The model new assortment is not any exception; each bit is engaging and several other different fashions have obtained thoughtful technical upgrades, along with an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials often should not merely new colours, nonetheless sport detailed ending and thoughtful particulars.

In any case, there’s little in the way in which during which of true novelty throughout the assortment outside of the Eternal Calendar which may be a unusual complication executed neatly nonetheless for an hard-to-believe six-figure worth. Even the Tourbillon Day & Night, which is arguably the one totally different new model, is merely a slight evolution of an present watch. This means fanatics of the gathering will almost definitely be completely satisfied, nonetheless it’s unlikely to attract any new followers.

That acknowledged, the current Portugieser assortment was already fairly sturdy, and I do uncover the model new colours to be very engaging. The Horizon Blue colour appears to be notably good on the the Perpetual Calendar, with its expansive dial and colour-matched 12 months indicator.

Slimmer circumstances

Previous the model new dial colours, the circumstances of every the Portugieser Computerized 40 and 42 have been refined and improved. That’s most evident for the 42, which has dropped a full millimetre in thickness, whereas the 40 has been slimmed a lot much less noticeably by merely 0.1 mm. The diminished thickness was achieved partly by thinning the case middle and elevating the domes of the crystals on the front and back, one factor IWC labels “double box-glass” sapphire crystals.

No matter being thinner, every the Portugieser 40 and 42 revenue from upgraded water resistance, from 30 to 50 metres. Whereas I don’t suppose anyone is swimming with a Portugieser, the improved rating is welcome and can help be certain that the long-term integrity of the case.

Perhaps the nicest ingredient of the model new case is the “stadium” movement found on the Portugieser 40, primarily an extra-wide movement ring that is employed as a design attribute.

This strikes loads of the engraved data generally found on the case once more, along with the case amount and hallmarks, to the movement ring under the sapphire once more. This not solely appears to be good, it protects the engravings from being dulled all through sharpening.

The cal. 52011 surrounded by the engraved movement ring

Improved dial particulars

The dials proceed with the established Portugieser aesthetic, nonetheless with a additional elaborate execution. Previous the utilized indices, the dials are literally accomplished with quite a lot of layers of clear lacquer, with the printed model and textual content material then utilized on excessive of the lacquer. This affords them additional gloss and depth.

The recessed sub-dials, whether or not or not for seconds, vitality reserve, or calendar, are milled into the dial and lack the thick clear lacquer, enhancing the notion of depth.

The Obsidian dial on the Portugieser 42

Horizon Blue on the Portugieser 40

Equally accomplished with utilized indices and clear lacquer, the dials of the Perpetual Calendar 44 are additional elaborate on account of calendar indicators. Each sub-dial is recessed and stepped – the brass clear is milled to create the recess – giving them additional depth. On the same time, the scales and textual content material have been gently reworked to be cleaner and further legible.

Antimagnetic enhance

The small upgrades proceed on the inside. Whereas the cals. 82200 and 69355 throughout the Portugieser 40 and Chronograph proceed unchanged, the automated, seven-day cal. 52011 throughout the Portugieser 42 has been upgraded with a full stability bridge and an antimagnetic escapement. The antimagnetic traits have not been confirmed, nonetheless it appears to utilize a metallic alloy skeletonised escape wheel and a jewelled lever – every most likely of a nickel alloy made by means of LIGA – differing from the silicon escapement used throughout the Black Aces Pilot’s Watch.

The upgraded cal. 52011

Every the Portugieser 40 and 42 attribute IWC’s well-known Pellaton winding system, patented in 1946 by IWC’s then-Technical Director Albert Pellaton. Upgraded with black ceramic pawls for long-term sturdiness, the Pellaton system is partaking to have a look at in motion and contributes to the distinctive Schaffhausen DNA of every watches.

A distinction of night and day

The differ of Portugieser tourbillons has moreover been expanded with the addition of the Tourbillon Day & Night. This model supplies a three-dimensional sphere, associated in thought to the De Bethune moonphase indicator, to level whether or not or not it’s night or day.

Additional intriguing is the escapement, which includes a hacking, flying tourbillon. Previous this unusual combination, the escape wheel and pallet are fabricated from silicon and have been CVD-coated in IWC’s Diamond Shell coating to minimise flooring friction. This, partly, explains how the watch achieves an 84-hour vitality reserve no matter its comparatively high-frequency, 4 Hz tourbillon.

And whereas the Portugieser 40, 42, and Chronograph make do with atypical 18k rose gold circumstances, the Tourbillon Day & Night and Perpetual Calendar fashions revenue from IWC’s proprietary 18k “Armor Gold” alloy. This supplies appears to be like rose gold nonetheless the alloy has been hardened, making it additional scratch resistant than widespread gold.

Producers have increasingly turned to proprietary provides, along with new gold alloys, in current instances as a method to distinguish from associates. Armor Gold does merely that, and is well-suited to IWC’s differ of watches which, ensuing from their larger sizes, often are inclined to get scratched all through frequently placed on.

Key data and worth

IWC Portugieser Computerized 40
Ref. IW358402 (white gold/Horizon Blue)
Ref. IW358401 (rose gold/Obsidian)

Diameter: 40.4 mm
Prime: 12.4 mm
Supplies: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 82200
Choices: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Computerized
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Restricted model: No
Availability: TBD
Value: CHF17,300 (rose gold) or CHF18,300 (white gold)

IWC Portugieser Computerized 42
Ref. IW501708 (white gold/Horizon Blue)
Ref. IW501707 (rose gold/Obsidian)
Ref. IW501705 (steel/Dune)
Ref. IW501701 (steel/Silver Moon)
Ref. IW501704 (steel/blue)

Diameter: 42.4 mm
Prime: 13 mm
Supplies: Steel, white, or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 52011
Choices: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and vitality reserve
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Computerized
Power reserve: 168 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp or steel bracelet

Restricted model: No
Availability: TBD
Value: CHF12,500 (steel), CHF13,500 (steel with bracelet), CHF25,000 (rose gold), or CHF26,000 (white gold)

IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Ref. IW371626 (white gold/Horizon Blue)
Ref. IW371625 (rose gold/Obsidian)
Ref. IW371624 (steel/Dune)

Diameter: 41 mm
Prime: 13.1 mm
Supplies: Steel, white, or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 69355
Choices: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, and chronograph
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Computerized
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle, or folding clasp for Ref. IW371624

Restricted model: No
Availability: TBD
Value: CHF8,200 (steel), CHF18,000 (rose gold), or CHF19,000 (white gold)

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
Ref. IW545901

Diameter: 42.4 mm
Prime: 10.8 mm
Supplies: 18k Armor Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 60 m

Movement: Cal. 81925
Choices: Hours, minutes, 60-second tourbillon, and day/night indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Handbook
Power reserve: 84 hours

Strap: Alligator with 18k Armor Gold folding clasp

Restricted model: No
Availability: TBD
Value: CHF80,000

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
Ref. IW503703 (white gold/Horizon Blue)
Ref. IW503704 (white gold/Dune)
Ref. IW503702 (Armor Gold/Obsidian)
Ref. IW503701 (Armor Gold/Silver Moon)

Diameter: 44.4 mm
Prime: 14.9 mm
Supplies: 18k white or Armor Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 52616
Choices: Hours, minutes, moonphase, perpetual calendar, and vitality reserve
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Computerized
Power reserve: 168 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Restricted model: No
Availability: TBD
Value: CHF45,000 (Armor Gold) or CHF46,000 (white gold)

For additional, go to IWC.com.

Once more to excessive.