Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this yr is coming to an in depth, it turns into apparent {{that a}} leitmotif of 2024 have been artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled and even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its flip with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamela straightforward, three-hand watch endowed with a fancy and spectacular dial made by hand.

Preliminary concepts

Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on high-quality watchmaking and unbiased watchmaking, the model new Escale feels further like one factor from an unbiased maker, comparatively than a timepiece made by an opulent massive. This form of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s consider horological craft, which could be the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Neutral Creatives.

The deep blue sector-style dial feels pure because of the radial guilloché beneath translucent enamel. Previous the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition.

The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks current in nineteenth century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is blended with Louis Vuitton’s private design cues similar to the pretend rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly good combination.

A dial crafted by 4 artisans

The complexity of the dial stems from fully completely different ending strategies being blended to supply a seemingly straightforward design with a mesmerising affect. Each dial is crafted by 4 artisans, each a specialist in a singular craft.

The dial clear start out as a white gold disc, which is milled to sort a raised lip that serves as a border for the enamel. The milled disc then go by the fingers of the guillochewho engraves the clear with a deep, wavy motif with a regular rose engine.

An enameller then takes over, painting the central sector with powdered coloured glass mixed with water and oil. The tactic is especially powerful as a result of the mixture have to be good in order to verify the layer is translucent. The technique of enamelling over guilloche is commonly generally known as fling.

On the same time, the enameller applies a layer of counter-enamel to the reverse of the dial plate, which is not seen moreover to the watchmaker assembling the watch. The technique of counter-enamelling is used to guard the dial plate’s geometry and flatness by means of the firing course of.

As a result of the enamel melts and binds to the sleek gold plate, it could set off the metal flooring to barely contract, warping the plate. Making use of a layer on the reverse assures the stress on the metal is evenly distributed on the front and back surfaces.

The dial plate then undergoes a lot of firings in an oven at temperatures of over 800° C. This melts the enamel paint onto the dial plate, creating enormous hearth enamel and a blue-tinted translucent layer over the engine-turned dial.

At this degree the dial is all nevertheless accomplished, with solely the chapter ring and utilized indices remaining. That’s the place points deviate a bit from customized.

The 4 baton indices on the quarters extend over the metal lip and onto the enamelled flooring. It’s a rarity in watchmaking as riveted hour indices on a fired enamel dial are terribly tough to tug off.

Each marker have to be anchored to the enamel in some technique, nevertheless this runs counter to the fragile, glass-like nature of enamel, which makes it inconceivable to drill normal holes to to secure the indices. The reply devised by Louis Vuitton to utilize a laser to cut three holes per marker, allowing the ft of each baton index  to be fully secured to the dial.

The fingers are straightforward and product of polished 18k white gold, excluding the seconds hand, which is in titanium with the target of reducing its inertia — or so argue Louis Vuitton’s engineers. Personally I uncover the choice a bit curious, as a result of the have an effect on of a thin, correctly poised seconds hand on a movement’s effectivity is close to negligible, regardless of the supplies.

A turning into movement

Behind the dial lies the LFT023, a micro-rotor movement created by specialist Le Circle des Horlogers in partnership with Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). It’s a 4 Hz movement with 50 hours of power reserve. The LFT023 could be examined and licensed as a chronometer by the Geneva Observatory — an uncommon attribute even amongst actions made in Geneva.

Whereas the caliber should not be considerably refined (other than the micro-rotor winding system), the ending is correctly completed and has some attention-grabbing, distinctive touches.

The bridges have a granular, sand-blasted finish, with raised and polished borders. The movement is impressively monochromatic, with clear jewels and rhodium-plated going put together. The one contrasting ingredient is the engraved, 22k gold micro rotor and discount gilt lettering (naturally launched inside the angular Louis Vuitton typeface). All in all, the LFT023 doesn’t look similar to a regular movement, nevertheless has an easy trendy prime quality.

The model new Escale employs the longstanding case of the model. Proper right here it is 39 mm and platinum, with a brushed case middle  that choices rivet-like gildings for the polished lugs, that are imagined to evoke the brass corners of Louis Vuitton’s well-known trunks.

Key specs and worth

Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ref. W3Pt21

Diameter: 39 mm
Peak: 8.97mm
Supplies: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023
Choices: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automated
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Leather-based-based with pin buckle

Restricted model: 50 objects
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Value: €75,000 excluding taxes

For further, go to Louisvuitton.com.

Once more to prime.