Over the past decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour all through watchmaking, with even conservative, prime quality watchmaking producers like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon stability springs. To not level out large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon stability springs.
Rolex, nonetheless, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to utilize a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring.

The Parachrom hairspring contained within the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona
The advantages of alloy
Utilizing blue Parachrom is rooted inside the simple undeniable fact that the proper metal alloy boasts effectivity that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – whereas offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon.
Alloy hairsprings are traditionally manufactured from Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a specific alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century outdated, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus inclined to have an effect on from magnetic fields.

The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is provided with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex
To have the ability to make its hairsprings further proof in opposition to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being certainly one of many key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex acquired right down to develop its private hairspring alloy inside the early 2000s.
This resulted in Parachrom, a patented alloy of niobium and zirconium (Nb-Zr), with traces of titanium, vanadium and tantalum, that boasts great paramagnetic properties. Formulating a hairspring alloy from the underside up posed its private sudden challenges, like an elevated “shift” inside the hairspring frequency along with the need for revolutionary heat treatment.

A conventional Nivarox hairspring produced by Precision Engineering found inside the Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro Rotor
Frequency shift
Properly-known to watchmakers is the phenomenon typically known as frequency shift. Over time, metal hairsprings shift their pure frequencies because of sluggish, gradual modifications at a molecular diploma. The shift of an untreated ferromagnetic hairspring can result in a 10-second every day variation after just one yr.
That’s triggered partially by the manufacturing course of, like rolling and coiling, all of which set off a eternal plastic deformation, leaving the molecular development of the alloy if ever so barely disturbed. Molecules are “dislodged” in the middle of the processes, then are inclined to slowly diffuse and return to their equilibrium place over time, which results in modifications to the Youthful’s modulus of the spiral, or simply put, its elasticity and suppleness. This causes the shift inside the frequency of the spring.
The reply takes the kind of heat therapies for rolled hairsprings, which principally accelerates the diffusion of the “dislodged” molecules and “locks” the particles in place. Such therapies can drastically lower frequency shift to beneath a second’s deviation after one yr.
In the middle of the expansion of Parachrom (Nb-Zr), the frequency shift phenomenon was discovered to be rather more accentuated compared with typical hairspring alloy. Moreover, typical heat therapies proved largely ineffective in fixing the difficulty. The shift value of an untreated Nb-Zr hairsprings is plotted in Fig Iwhich is tailor-made from US patent US6503341B2 filed by Rolex in 2001.

Fig. I – Frequency shift value for untreated Nb-Zr hairsprings. Provide – Patent US6503341B2
Varied therapies
Rolex engineers surmised that molecular defects alone could not have been answerable for the extreme value of frequency shift, and deduced there was one different problem at play, particularly oxidisation. Nivarox alloys are intrinsically proof in opposition to oxidisation in common conditions of room temperature and ambient air interaction, and the oxygen inside the atmosphere would not bind to the metal.
Nb-Zr alloys, nonetheless, are inclined to rising a thin oxide film over their ground over time, which binds to the alloy. The layer itself is minuscule (numerous nanometers at most) nevertheless it sorts inconsistently and modifications over time, resulting in variations inside the spring’s restoring torque, thus altering its frequency.
The reply for this sudden scenario render Parachrom hairsprings distinctive inside the commerce. To have the ability to forestall the metal from oxidising, the raw hairsprings are coated with a defending layer by the use of an anodising course of.

The Parachrom hairspring in a cal. 3230. Image – Rolex
Anodising is a standard electrolytic passivation course of used for coating positive metals with an on a regular basis oxide layer. In doing so, it ensures that the metal will not corrode or extra oxidise by itself, as a result of the coating forcibly binds oxygen to the metal. In the middle of the electrolysis-like course of the oxide layer’s thickness shall be finely tuned to very precise tolerances. The metal principally associated to anodising therapies is aluminium. For example, aluminium watch bezels are anodised to have the ability to make them further placed on and corrosion resistant.
Rolex discovered the anodising course of was utterly suited to its very specific need: the compelled oxide layer on Parachrom is uniform, with the layer’s thickness merely adjusted. The oxide layer has a set thickness of approximatively 50 nanometers.
Moreover, the layer doesn’t intervene with the alloy’s molecular development and is totally reproducible over large batches, making it advantageous for mass manufacturing. However, this further step of coating simply is not required for ferromagnetic alloy springs (like these in Nivarox), which gives to the related charge and complexity of the Parachrom hairspring.

The cal. 4131 found inside the current period Cosmograph Daytona features a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex
Anodising presents Parachrom hairsprings their trademark blue hue, explaining why the material was initially often known as “Parachrom bleu”. The colour can actually be assorted by altering the voltage in the middle of the electrolytic course of. Early Parachrom hairspring prototypes had greenish hues, sooner than the strategy was lastly perfected.
After the anodising course of, the hairsprings moreover cross by the use of an oven for heat treatment at about 200°C, which takes care of the important molecular imbalance. The highest consequence shall be observed in Figs. IIwhich reveals the every day variation of the dealt with hairsprings attributable to residual frequency shift over time. The outcomes ignore place or escapement-induced deviations, and solely ponder the pure frequency shift phenomenon.

Fig. II – Frequency shift for a very dealt with Parachrom spring and a heat-treated-only Nb-Zr spring. Provide – Patent US6503341B2
The graph reveals two plots: the blue line represents an anodised and heat-treated hairspring, whereas the crimson line represents the shift for a hairspring that is solely heat-treated and with out anodisation. For a very dealt with hairspring (particularly anodised and heated) the shift may very well be very close to nil and truly, the consequence implies the hairspring is self-compensating. Comparatively, the spring that is solely heat-treated nonetheless reveals a noticeable shift after solely a month.
Mockingly, the high-tech nature of Parachrom has an uncanny historic parallel: the colour of Parachrom hairsprings is paying homage to the traditional heat-blued hairsprings current in high-grade chronometer watches of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries which were a discreet mark of top of the range, just because the proprietary alloy is in the meanwhile.

A Twenties Patek Philippe observatory chronometer pocket watch with a heat-blued hairspring
The silicon comparability
From its inception, Parachrom was meant to lower a movement’s susceptibility to magnetic have an effect on. The niobium-zirconium alloy is actually extraordinarily proof in opposition to magnetic fields, nevertheless it is not pretty as impervious as silicon, which is akin to glass.
Silicon hairsprings possesses numerous completely different advantages, along with being easier to manufacture, letting them be conveniently shaped into inherently isochronous geometries. So why does Rolex nonetheless rely on the costly Parachrom alloy hairspring, when it would comfortably pivot to silicon hairsprings all through its regular of actions?

The Rolex Syloxi silicon hairspring in cal. 7140 of the Perpetual 1908
The reply arguably lies in robustness and timelessness.
A silicon hairspring is further vulnerable to breaking when subjected to sturdy shocks, which is unsurprising given the brittle nature of the material. In precise truth, a silicon hairspring shall be snapped in two by pulling it apart vertically, which can happen with a careless watchmaker.
As quickly as broken, a silicon hairspring requires altering as silicon cannot be mended. With the large-scale manufacturing of perfectly-formed silicon hairsprings, substitute simply is not a problem in the meanwhile, nevertheless who can inform if this availability will proceed into the distant future?
In distinction, an alloy hairspring would merely bend barely on impression, which shall be merely undone by a gifted watchmaker. Even a badly deformed alloy hairspring shall be fixed, albeit by a loads, much more skilled watchmaker, and at considerable time and expense.

A Parachrom hairspring fitted to a variable inertia stability with Microstella regulating weights. Image – Rolex
Equally, Rolex appears philosophically inclined in route of classical watchmaking. If one thing, the mannequin has gone extra on this path in current occasions, as exemplified by guilloche dials and present backs for embellished actions. With its blue sheen and Breguet overcoil, the Parachrom hairspring evokes typical chronometers and hints at a bygone interval of precision timekeeping, which boosts the Rolex philosophy.
Distinctive in watchmaking and expensive to develop, Parachrom generally is a protected wager, notably in distinction with alternate choices which can present problematic on the long run – this chimes with the generally conservative and prudent technique of Rolex.
So far, Parachrom has confirmed its value, being undoubtedly essential to the impressively tight -2/+2 seconds every day variation dictated by the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification that’s now regular all through the Rolex catalogue. Parachrom has confirmed itself to hold out at least along with silicon, and possibly larger in some respects, which ought to ensure its place in Rolex actions for a really very long time to return.
Once more to prime.