Palms On: Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue

Ulysse Nardin has been respiratory new life into its flagship Freak assortment for the earlier plenty of years, and the newest model to be taught from this focus is the Freak One Navy Blue, that features a blue dial that pays homage to the distinctive Freak from 2001. And that’s changing into, on account of the Freak One assortment is a retelling of the story, imagining what the Freak would look like if it had been to debut throughout the present day.

Preliminary concepts

I’ve always had an extreme quantity of respect for the Freak, though I admit I’ve not always been within the aesthetic. That started to change for me when the design language started evolving to its current, additional futuristic form.

The Freak Imaginative and prescient of 2018 was the first step on this path, nonetheless the model that truly happy me was the Freak S Nomad launched earlier this yr. What makes these watches so satisfying is the best way wherein the mechanics have been reimagined to develop to be the central design part; the time is revealed as a result of the movement walks its methodology throughout the dial.

In some methods, the One will likely be seen as a result of the little brother to the Freak S. At 44 mm, the One is a fraction smaller than its additional subtle sibling, nonetheless shares plenty of the similar growth and provides.

The case is titanium and accomplished with a black DLC coating, whereas the bezel is fabricated from recycled carbon fibre composite. Identical to the Freak S, the One wears smaller than its dimensions suggest, thanks partially to its muted colours and the best way wherein the central carrousel attracts the eye. The provides moreover indicate it is lightweight, larger than anticipated given the scale. This contrasts with the earlier generations of Freak fashions, which had been usually in treasured metallic and unwieldy by the use of weight.

The traditional bezel locking tab positioned at six o’clock

The One is powered by the UN-240, a one-hour carrousel movement that’s computerized with 90 hours of power reserve. Like its bigger brother, the One benefits from primarily essentially the most atmosphere pleasant computerized winding system throughout the commerce, with 4 winding pawls to transmit vitality to the barrel as a lot as twice as fast as standard computerized strategies.

At US$66,800, the Freak One is a great deal of sit up for the money, notably considering that’s decrease than half the price of the Freak S, whereas offering correctly over half the technical and aesthetic content material materials. Even on this price part, the aggressive panorama is slender; few watches deal with to be every iconic and progressive.

An education on the wrist

Like totally different Freak fashions, the One will likely be sophisticated, if not overwhelming, at first look. Nonetheless that’s okay, as a result of the design and format of the dial-side components can actually prepare the viewer a few mechanical watch movement. In a technique, it’s like sporting a watchmaking class on the wrist. The 44 mm diameter of the watch provides ample home to level out off the mechanics on the dial.

The first issue to know regarding the One is that central carrousel is the minute hand, geared to a set ring throughout the perimeter of the dial. This whole gear is beneath spring stress from its central hub, with power flowing from the tip of the minute hand by the use of the seen gear follow to the escapement. With each oscillation, as a result of the escapement locks and unlocks, liberating the minute hand to ‘stroll’ forward little-by-little, ending one full revolution per hour.

The time confirmed is 10:08

The carrousel varieties the minute hand

Chronometrically, this supplies benefits identical to these of a tourbillon, as a result of the orientation of the escapement is constantly altering (not lower than throughout the vertical place). In any case, most tourbillons rotate 60 time sooner, nonetheless the final affect is comparable in the long term.

The hour pointer, mounted to a hoop throughout the dial, is geared from the minute hand just like in a conventional watch, making two rotations per day.

With no standard winding crown, setting and winding operations are divided between the doorway and rear bezels. To set the time, one merely flips throughout the “FREAK” flange on the six o’clock place and rotates the bezel, which causes the minute hand to rotate.

The bezel itself is fabricated from Carbonium, a form of recycled carbon fiber sourced from the aerospace commerce. The bezel movement may very well be very protected and satisfying, and the tactic of setting the time is a pleasure.

Winding the watch is a bit more tedious, requiring a superb grip on the rear bezel throughout the case once more. This was considered one of many largest inconveniences of the distinctive Freak, which was solely handbook wind and had an unlimited mainspring for a seven-day power reserve.

In real-world use, hand-winding the Freak One simply is not in all probability a problem, due to the novel winding system which operates additional successfully than standard computerized strategies. Whereas the weeklong power reserve of the distinctive is spectacular, the Freak One is every additional superior technically and significantly additional shopper nice.

Flipping the watch over affords a view of Ulysse Nardin’s proprietary Grinder computerized winding system, which makes use of 4 winding pawls to significantly improve its winding effectivity. The thought was tailor-made from Grinders, specialised winches used on racing yachts, which operate on an similar principle. This design inspiration supplies pleasing symmetry to Ulysse Nardin’s private historic previous as a celebrated maker of marine chronometers.

The larger Freak S moreover makes use of the Grinder system, nonetheless compared with its more-complicated sibling, the One supplies an extra 18 hours of power reserve whereas oscillating at a greater frequency of three Hz, fairly than the 2.5 Hz. From this, one can infer that the One is additional vitality atmosphere pleasant, as a result of the transfer of vitality simply is not watered down by the use of a differential, and because it has just one escapement fairly than two.

The Grinder system in movement

Silicon chalet

Like its predecessors, the Freak One makes use of silicon prominently and proudly. Though silicon is now extensively used throughout the commerce, it’s worth noting that Ulysse Nardin was the first mannequin to make use of this supplies to a producing watch, and stays considered one of many few producers throughout the commerce with in-house expertise with this supplies, due to its possession stake in Sigatec.

Whereas the composition of the silicon supplies has remained unchanged since 2001, a formidable achievement in itself, the mannequin has developed new manufacturing methods that enable it to offer a larger number of components in silicon. Throughout the case of the One, the escapement, hairspring, and stability wheel are all fabricated from silicon.

Furthermore, the escapement components are coated in a synthetic diamond coating generally known as DIAMonSIL to verify nearly friction-free operation. Whereas this setup can technically work completely dry, the mannequin has found that using a small amount of oil for the preliminary impulse helps pace up the soundness to full amplitude.

Closing concepts

Horological innovators are hardly design icons. Technical innovation is often imperceptible and obscure. Then once more, a lot of the watches which have develop to be design icons are pretty standard beneath the hood. Working instance, when the Freak One gained the “Iconic” prize on the GPHG ultimate yr, it was nominated alongside 5 vintage-inspired watches with eminently standard actions.

One in all many points I’ve always cherished regarding the Freak is that it makes use of the seen spectacle of the carrousel as a storytelling part, merging technicality and aesthetics. Twenty-three years after the Freak’s debut, the model new Freak One executes a sophisticated balancing act: it manages to really feel and seem current, with out shedding the essential DNA that has made the Freak an actual icon of updated watchmaking.

Key particulars and price

Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue
Ref. 2403-500-3A/3A (‘ballistic’ rubber strap)
Ref. 2403-500-3A/3B (rubber strap)

Diameter: 44 mm
Peak: 13.37 mm
Supplies: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UN-240
Options: Hours and minutes
Winding: Computerized
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Vitality reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Anthracite rubber or “ballistic” textured strap, with folding clasp

Restricted model: No
Availability: At Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Value: US$66,800

For additional, go to Ulysse-nardin.com.

Once more to prime.